Phitsanolok, northern Thailand. December 2024.
Still plenty of fights.
So read a text message from Mark, a fellow Brit I’d bumped into as I was on my second crawl under a long boat inside a temple, for luck, I’d been told.
I knew of Mark before our paths had crossed as the hostel he ran was one of only two places in Phitsanolok, northern Thailand, that my Google search told me rented out scooters.
His bikes were taken but he invited me to a Muay Thai kickboxing event, taking place the following night on the outskirts of town.
I was able to procure a 125 Honda something and from my hotel rode out the next day to the far east of the province. An hour and a half’s worth of motorway and solid concentration paid off with a spectacular array of limestone karsts, much like you see in the south of the country.
Later that night I happened upon Phitsanolok’s huge Saturday market and adjoined, elaborate staged entertainment with singing, dancing, and a Thai Santa being comically violated by a transgender woman, twice. Thai-style light entertainment for all the family.
When Mark’s text came through, I jumped on a Grab bike, walked through the crowd at JP Boxing Gym, and Mark ushered me into the ringside area.
It was a mosty Thai lineup, although one of the most interesting match-ups was between Mark’s friend, Sean, a stocky, hard-hitting Australian fighting a leaner local lad.
Phitsanulok province is known as the birthplace of Muay Thai. It is one of the oldest cities in Thailand and was at one time the nation’s capital. Despite it’s cultural heritage, its gorgeous, lively central temples, and its dramatic scenery, the entire province has no mention in The Lonely Planet.
The tracks, presumably like some of the fighters this night, remain unbeaten here in Phitsanulok. I was in awe of the athletes and enamoured by the rowdy atmosphere.
Whilst the visual narrative paints a picture of victory for Sean, the Australian actually lost his fight, although his opponent was quick to offer him his proverbial flowers by bowing deeper and longer than John after the decicion.
Muay Thai, despite being a brutal, is beautifully balletic at times, and surprisingly amusing with some of the taunting facial expressions fighters make toward each other throughout rounds. The floored fighter in the final shot was the man in the earlier portrait. From the punishing opening blows of his fight, it was either going to be him or his rival gracing the canvas.
Perhaps, like the lands they reside in, they had a history.
The Secret Map 